Photo: Shakastics



Photo: J Grant Brittain

I have an absolute passion for many, many things.  I love surfing, as well as the culture that surrounds it.  While I have an interest in modern surfing, it is its heritage and history that I am really interested in.

I started surfing in the mid 80's, this is the golden era for me, mainly because this was my own era.  The discovery of surfing opened up a whole new world, right when I needed something like that.  It has pretty much defined my identity, and shaped the way I see the world and live my life.

While I do not go as much as I once did, I still love what I would describe as being my culture, and really enjoy looking at it in a nostalgic sense as well as discovering new elements of surfing that I was not previously aware of. Admittedly, the latter is getting more and more difficult, such is my knowledge, but the internet still throws up many surprises, as more and more artifacts, old footage, photographs and accounts are put on line.

I also have a real interest in skateboarding, again it is the past eras that I like the most, primarily the 1980's, again, this is when I started doing it myself. While this was always a secondary pursuit to surfing, I have always appreciated good, strong skating, the more stylish, the better. I also like the styles and imagery of skating, it has always been and to an extent remains, a close cousin to surfing, and yet, the styles that emerged from the 70' and 80's were wholly different.  I was attracted to this very early on, and remain so to this day.